There is nothing so formal as street names in the mountaintop village of Apeiranthos, on the Cycladic island of Naxos. “Just ask for my house,” second world war resistance fighter Manolis Glezos instructs me.
Sure enough, everyone knows the home of Apeiranthos’ most famous son, next to the bakery. I follow my nose past a church hewn into the rock, up winding white-paved passages and tumbling bougainvillea, arriving at the source of a waft of traditional crusty psomi bread.
Glezos — a hero in Greece since he humiliated the Nazi occupiers by climbing up the Acropolis and tearing down the swastika flag in 1941 — is scribbling notes for his next book already on his vine-covered stone terrace. The act of defiance, for which he received a death sentence in absentia, came to inspire resistance movements across Europe.
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